Berlin and Paris- fin

We got to Berlin starving and tired. The street our hostel ended up being on actually had quite a few street vendors but the crowds and lines were ridiculous and we wanted to have a seat. And a drink. The first restaurant we came upon once getting off our block was a Thai place and I have to be honest, we were both dying for Thai food. So yes. Our first night in Berlin we had Thai and it was great. But don’t worry, we quite literally had bratwurst, beer and sauerkraut for every meal for the next two days.

I felt a little bad getting into Berlin because I’d actually done little research on what to do. I wasn’t even sure what the big monuments in the town were but I could guess some so on day 1 we hit up some obvious must sees. The Berlin wall (a little piece of it), a museum called Topography of Terror about HItler/ the Reich and the Jewish Museum during which I saw a grown woman lose a tooth. Or at least run up to her friend in a tizzy and pulled it out of her mouth. I’m not sure how it happens. Not that that was the most memorable thing in the museum, it was actually fascinating and gigantic and thankfully not only about the holocaust, but that is a moment I remember clearly.

Day 2 we hit up Tiergarten, not only because it is a Rufus Wainwright song, but that point wasn’t lost on me. It is right next to a bunch of other must sees like the Brandenburg Gate and that hotel where Michael Jackson hung his baby out the window. Important stuff. Anyway, Tiergarten is a huge, beautiful park which you could ride your bike around for hours in and never see it all. It also has a zoo and an aquarium, the latter of which we actually went to see. I’m pretty sure aquariums just don’t get old. I could go to one a week and still be amazed. This one had a bigger than average insect exhibit which was interesting though unnerving. And I accidently saw a frog take a giant poop. I just happened to look at it at that moment but you would not believe how big it was compared to how he was. What was with me seeing things I would have preferred not to? I’d love to go back to Germany one day a little more prepared and see more. It was an interesting place. And Berlin is rocker central so all you music kids would love it there.

Then it was time to take a 12 hour train ride from Hell over to Paris. It was an overnight train but we hadn’t been able to get a sleeper car so we were stuck in a 6 person room of 3 seats facing each other and the train was full. So please imagine sitting pretty much straight up and down, for 12 hours, with 6 people in a tiny compartment. It was both muggy and cold at the same time and I’ve never gotten so little sleep in my life. Well, when I’m trying to sleep that is. I’m not getting much sleep right now but I’m very clearly trying to be awake.

We arrived in Paris, sleepy and sore. A nice thing about our time in Paris is both Michelle and I were willing to take it easy. We’ve both been here relatively recently so we got to hit up some things we’d been meaning to see before but then also just chill and walk and eat pastries.

Day 1 we went in Notre Dame which both of us had seen but neither had been in. The line to get in was impossibly long but it was free entrance and we just decided to do it anyway. What’s a little standing around uncomfortably when you’ve been sitting uncomfortably for hours? It was worth it. The line moved quick and the inside is beautiful. It was definitely more gothic and darker than most of the cathedrals we saw in Italy. We then went to The Orssay, an art museum with an amazing impressionist section and some other surprisingly famous pieces. Van Gogh, Matisse, Monet, Toulouse Lautrec... Lots of the biggies. It’s perhaps my favorite art museum and Michelle had never been there so we were excited to see it but on a day when we were both barely able to stand without one hand on the wall, a long museum walk can be tough. By the time we were done we decided the only obvious solution was a bottle of wine, baguette, and cheese under the Eiffel Tower. And that was a good way to spend the evening. It was especially fun walking through the area where our hostel is to get home that. We’re situated quite close to the Moulin Rouge, which those of you who have been here know is the sleaziest part of town. We went to a bar Michelle had been to before that was right next to the Moulin Rouge and then pranced home rather quickly past all of the sex shops and bum fights.

Which leads me to today. Our last day in Europe. We only had two things in mind to do. Last time I was in Paris, I had decided too late that I wanted to see the Dali gallery by Sacre Coeur so we hit that up first. Sacre Coeur is an amazing church with of course a beautiful view, however walking up the steps to the church on the hill one must dodge literally something like 25 of those guys who grab your wrist, tie on a friendship bracelet and make you pay for it. I kept my head down and jogged past them as quick as I could with a constant stream of, “No merci, no no no merci no!” coming out of my mouth. Michelle, on the other hand, got nabbed. I saw it happened and kept running. Anyone who watches Flight of the Conchords- I felt like Bret when he left Jermaine behind when he was getting mugged. I guess I’m a pretty horrible friend. Now she’s one euro poorer but the proud owner of a mediocre friendship bracelet. We found the Dali museum quite quickly. It was actually exactly where I kind of guessed it was from seeing it for a second when I was there 2 years ago. That rarely happens so score for me. It was a beautiful exhibit. We saw a Dali exhibit in Prague too and I liked this one better.

And the last thing on the list for our whole European trip. Michelle had made reservations a while back as a surprise at Laduree. Obviously Paris has some of the most most renowned pastry shops in the world and Laduree is one of the most prized in Paris. It specializes, like many Parisian shops, in French macaroons. Pastry students, I know you know this, but everyone else: don’t think of coconut macaroons when I say macaroon. French macaroon are little round sandwich cookies which come in every color and flavor imaginable. They’re chewy, and delicate and creamy and delicious. There spread is awe inspiring. The shop itself is the most adorable little place you can imagine with dark wood, with gold and mint green elaborate decor. The lunch is not cheap, but it is an experience. Ours was simply stunning in display and taste (I had anglerfish with puff pastry filled with vegetables in a lemon verbena sauce). And the dessert, my friends, was to die for. The top and bottom was a giant rose flavored macaroon, so a chewy light cookie, and in the middle was whipped cream and fresh raspberries. It was beautiful. I’ve pretty much been thinking about it all day. Our waiter asked us where we were from when we were paying and we said the states. He told us that 2 days earlier Natalie Portman had sat in exactly the spot we were sitting. I, being quite a huge Natalie fan, was more than impressed by this. He then went on about other people who’d been there lately like Tom Cruise and Cameron Diaz and ended with “and now you two!” (He’ll be telling other Americans about us for years). But I was still stuck on Natalie Portman and kept asking questions about her. Was she polite? Apparently she was. When we left I kept one eye open the rest of the day just in case we happened to run into her. If only we’d been at Laduree when she was there. Eating pastries with Natalie Portman in Paris is just about as close as you could get to eating breakfast with Audrey Hepburn in front of Tiffany’s in this day and age. So close.

We slowly made our way home and now is the time to get our final things packed up and squared away.

This trip has been an adventure. It’s had ups and downs, it’s had hots and colds. Mostly hots. Hot and muggies. But come colds too up in the Alps. Anyway I’m so glad I decided to do it even though there was a period of time when I wasn’t sure if it was a good idea, or I wasn’t sure if it would happen even if I thought it was a good idea. Thanks to anyone who read this. It was half for my own purposes as a journal and log of my time here but making it public for other people to read forced me to make it at least a little more interesting too. Then perhaps when I read it again one day in the future it won’t just be like reading a blank itinerary. But it’s nice to know some people were following along and were remembering me while I was gone. But I won’t be for long. Thanks again friends. And see you soon. Ciao!